Going slowly is still going

23 January 2009, 10:13

So, things are off to a slow start, but a start nonetheless. I’ve got two funerals coming up, and I’m sending out tendrils with lawyers and friends. I’m trying to get an in with the police, because they have some kind of task force or something like that, so I might be able to get an interesting perspective there on some of the more contentious types of inheritance disputes. But for now, I’m not finding much to do for more than a few hours a day, so there’s been a lot of reading/tv watching as well.

Yesterday I got tired of that, so I started working on an article I made from my master’s thesis that my undergrad prof said she’d like to take a look at, and possibly help me find a venue for publication. That kind of made me feel good about this academic thing, if my entertainment for the evening is editing a paper….

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Conspiracies of headaches and less painful matters

14 November 2008, 06:59

The world seems to be conspiring to give me a headache today, and it’s making me grumpy. I seem to have gotten dehydrated yesterday, despite a fair amount to drink. My room is next to a water pump that goes on at 6 am. It sounds exactly like a loud vacuum cleaner that has been left standing in place directly outside my open window. Normally it doesn’t bother me too much, but this morning it gave me a wicked headache. Now I am here at the internet cafe sitting under the one dying florescent light in the place which is a little like the Chinese water torture of light.

I have started writing up my research. It is a very early stage of write-up, but it is making me feel much more accomplished about what I’ve done and I’m enjoying it a great deal. Right now I’m writing an experimental (or maybe not that experimental, but rather simply non-academic) first chapter and a more academic second chapter. I’m also making notes and outlines for further chapters, an exercise that helps to make clear what information I need to spend the rest of my time focusing on.

I’m thinking of publishing some of the first chapter here, especially since it will probably never make it into the final draft. I want to attempt to describe life in Kumasi in a way that gives a vivid sense of living here, and that manages to convey a sense of both the social structures and the random fluidity of social life. I’m not sure how I feel about putting such raw stuff out for all the world to see (potentially, obviously, since I think my actual readership is around 10). Any comments, should I/shouldn’t I? Do you want to see it?

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Chost? What is a Chost? Or a Human Region for that matter?

12 November 2008, 12:36

As promised, I have made note of one of the stranger movie compilation titles:

“Fierce Chost Eats Human Region”

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Snippets

29 October 2008, 10:57

I often have little moments that I think people would enjoy hearing about, but it’s hard to compose a whole article about them. So I’m going to try to remember a few, and just put them here in no particular order, with no particular theme.

1. The other day I got off the taxi at a different place and explored a new route to the internet cafe, because I now know so many vendors on my regular route that it adds between 10 and 40 minutes to my walk just to greet everybody properly.

1. a) I’ve come to a new appreciation of celebrity public meltdowns, particularly violence towards photographers and aggressive fans. For myself, I find it hard to ignore people who speak to me because it seems very rude, but on the other hand it can be exhausting, and sometimes it is not at all rewarding (for instance, I once told some people that I couldn’t stop because I was meeting a friend, they asked man or woman, and I said man, and then they made some rude comment about me meeting him for sex.) Sometimes you’re having a really bad day, and you just want a few minutes to collect yourself but there’s someone who keeps pressing even when you’ve done the polite “I’m not interested” thing. And sometime, on those day, sometimes, you just loose it and find yourself yelling at a beggar to “Go!!!! AWAY!!!!!!” And then you find yourself with a new appreciation for people who punch cameramen.

2. You can buy really cheap movie and tv collections here. They come in a shiny box with collages representing the collection and a nifty copyright notification assuring you that they have permission to distribute these movies but you, the buyer, do not. They are low res and the tv shows often have a television stations water mark on them (I get the biggest kick out of watching tv programs with “Global” or “Citytv” on them). But the funniest thing about these collections is the bizzaro titles and themes they have. There are a number of “vs.” collections. I recently purchased “Jennifer Lopez vs. Kate Winslet”, basically a collection of about 20 movies, 10 each “staring” one or the other (“staring” is a stretch for some of the movies). I wish I could remember some of the more bizarre titles. I will keep my eye out and write them down next time, I promise.

3. Incongruous t-shirts are a constant source of private amusement and/or speculation to me. Did the mayoral candidate in Iowa ever envision his campaign t-shirt on a woman in Africa carrying yams-for-sale on her head? Does that respectable teacher and father of four know who “Black Sabbath” is?

3. a) I don’t want to make fun of people wearing incongruous t-shirts, because they’re pretty much seen as work clothes that can be worn until they’re too grubby and then turned to rags. So it’s a private amusement, just a humourous note to myself that I exist in two different contexts. But then I occasionally see something incongruous on a child, one of those overly sexual slogans we’ve taken to putting on children. I find these distressing, not because of the context here; I think most people are indifferent to t-shirt slogans and even literate people may see them more as designs than messages. But the incongruity of seeing a man wearing a pink “Princess” t-shirt is one of cross-culture context. That type of incongruity highlights the fact that the incongruity of a 7-year-old child wearing a t-shirt with large block letters saying “SED/UCT/ION” is a purposeful one that was intended, and that people bought into in the first place. I’ve always found it distasteful, but somehow seeing it in this context, it seemed more profoundly disturbing. I suppose because it seems that the people who made and bought these shirts for children were using the children to create their own private amusement, similar to the one I feel looking at recycles, out of context slogans.

Well, that’s all for now. I’ll try to think of more.

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Update

23 October 2008, 04:50

I’ve been lax, I know. Remiss even. I wonder if anybody even checks the blog anymore. I wouldn’t blame you if you didn’t, although you’d never know.

A lot has happened. I was sick, then better, then sick, then better, then sick, then sicker, then really really sick, then a little better, then a little sick, then mostly better, then better, then sick, now mostly better. I now am the same weight that I was when I was 13.

Somewhere between a little sick and mostly better I moved from the house where I was living to a non-Ghanaian household consisting of a Norwegian girl I’ve become friends with and the child she is in the process of adopting. It’s great fun living with them, her child is a great lover of life, and is at a stage where her favourite forms of interaction are hugs and kisses. Regular hugs and kisses are very nice when living far from the people you love.

My research has not progressed as much as I would have hoped, given all the sickness, but it has progressed. I am better at interviewing now, and I have had the chance to sit in not just at funerals, but at the meetings before and afterward where much of the decision-making that I’m interested in happens. I’ve met a number of people who have given me really great and interesting information, and been very generous in their participation in my project.

The longer I stay here, the more this is just a place where I live. The quirks and funny moments that lend themselves to blogging start to fade away into ordinariness, and I am left walking down a dirt road next to a corn field, listening to the birds, insects, and traffic, with the sun beating on my head and the occasional passer-by carrying a load on her head, feeling a profound sense of ordinary. In many ways this is a good thing, it certainly is more comfortable to live in an ordinary place than a strange one. But it has the affect of making me feel like I have nothing to say, something which has unfortunately affected my research notes as well as my blog (although not nearly as badly, if my adviser is readin :) )

Anyway, I’m going to try to make more of an effort with the blog again, because I’ve started drafting my thesis, and it’s made me realize that I still have lots to say. Also, I miss talking to people, and I’m hoping that more activity will inspire both comments and emails.

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